The mountain is a refreshing place and at the same time a gym to test your own skills. The skills of the trade of a Mountain Guide make accessible, ambitious goals, in a safe and secure environment.
The ridges of Monte Rosa, like the famous peaks of the Swiss Canton of Valais are our best candidates for a game which is always different.
EASY MOUNTAINEERING / ROCK
Joderhorn SE Ridge (Macugnaga)
An easy ridge which does not exceed 5 degree, with a panorama that is the envy of the most beautiful scenic views of the Alps. The road winds along a ridge of excellent rock for about 10 lengths,one more beautiful than the next, (video at the opening page) where we will learn the technical progression of the group and use of the various protection systems in climbing. We are at 3000 meters, just off the cable car at Monte Moro we will walk for about 40 minutes up and down until the ridge. We will reach the top in 10 pitches of fun climbing to stop at Rifugio Oberto where a bottle of Gattinara and a good plate of cuisine will make our day even more memorable!
Punta della Rossa, SE Ridge Via dello Spigolo (Alpe Devero)
Well known route on excellent rock, one of the most beautiful in the Alps on this degree (maximum 5), one needs a little training especially to get to the top, about 1h 40min, but it will be worth while! About 9 exciting pitches will bring us to the summit of this mountain symbol of Alpe Devero.
We are at 2887 m, for the less energetic I recommend spending a night at high altitude in one of the beautiful refuges Albergo Ristorante La Baita to fully immerse yourself in this wonderful Natural Park and enjoy the climb on the following day.
Rifugio Zamboni-Zappa (Macugnaga)
The Alpe Pedriola is the base of this mythical refuge: definitely a fantastic viewpoint on the East face of Monte Rosa. Hence the giant reveals its wild side, where only a few are venturing, 2500 m in altitude make it the highest wall of the Alps, and we will get neck ache in the continue to spying of the different ways. In this basin there are many possibilities of easy routes on excellent rock of 6 to 7 pitches.
We come to 2500 m, of the Belvedere chairlift from Pecetto and about 1 hour of walking we are approaching the ways, I suggest:
• Via dei Balossi (video)
• Genepy Express (video)
Jegihorn, Saas Grund (canton of Valais)
We are in the paradise of the peaks over 4000 and in front of us we have peaks which have made the alpine history of the Alps. In the area of Saas Grund, well served by the beautiful ski lift in winter, there are several easy routes (up to 5 degrees) on excellent rock where those who want to climb in the sun and in the presence of glaciers will be completely satisfied. From the lower station the lifts of the Hohsaas to 3200 m, in about 50 minutes walk we get to the start of the South wall of the Jegihorn. We will be spoiled for choice: many beautiful Vie fully equipped, or for those who will not want to learn to use climbing shoes there is always the famous Via Ferrata (see the dedicated page), one of most beautiful in Switzerland.
The area is full of suggestions, that we will evaluate from time to time, and it will be my job to allow you discover them.
Punta Giordani 4021 m (Monte Rosa)
La Cresta del Soldato, easy but not least to be taken half hearted, is on top of the Punta Giordani and borders to the wild atmosphere of the high mountains. Easy steps on the rock to do with boots on, but sometimes also with crampons, add to the high altitude. The environment in which we move is great.
From Punta Indren 3286 m, where we arrive by cable car, from Alagna or Gressoney, in about 1 hour of walking we reach the ridge. Once at the top we still have the glacier to go up, which will bring us directly with your legs under the table of the Caffè delle Guide to Alagna or Walsertal of Gressoney. This climb is perfect for those who want to learn the moves and techniques of how to move safely in the high mountains.
CLIMBING HIGH ALTITUDE
Saas Fee, Saas Grund, Zermatt
The area does not need any introduction.
• Allalinhorn, 4027 m, with its fantastic view. It has become the most accessible 4000 of the Alps, thanks to the Metro Alpin who arrives directly at 3500 m. Only 527 m of difference in altitude on a comfortable glacier, here we are with crampons and tied with rope, hoping to embrace the cross on the summit, and the exposition will also give you a nice shock!
• Weissmies, 4020 m, which thanks to the Hohensaas cable car, we will walk only 1000 m of altitude to reach the top, tied with rope and crampons.
Then the proposals are many and range from Stralhorn 4190 m (see video), to the Alpubel 4206 m, to the Breithorn 4165 m, ending with the Cervino 4478 m, or Matterhorn as they call it here.
From the ascent to Capanna Margherita, to the many of the 4000:, some you can reach in a day such as the Piramide Vincent 4227 m, others require to spend a night in a refuge.
All the peaks are well served by cable car of Punta Indren, which reaches 3300 m, and from the rifugio Gnifetti and the more modern rifugio Mantova.
Here we are spoiled for choice and it will be my duty to direct you to climb what suits your ability and above what will give you most satisfaction.
• Capanna Margherita sulla Punta Gnifetti
• Punta Dufour, Rey Ridge
• Punta Gnifetti, Signal Ridge (video)
Gran Paradiso (Valsavaranche)
Can not miss the climb to the legendary Granpa, 4061 meters.
Well-served by the rifugio Chabod of the friend Tiziana, this is a climb for mountaineers who already have under their feet some experience of hight peaks. The mountaineering final, not to be taken half heartedly, to manage to get to embrace the Madonna on the top, makes it a complete high-altitude climb. Leaving your car at the parking of the Chabod Refuge it will take a couple of hours before being served a beer by Tiziana. The following day we will touch the top after about 4 hours on the glacier and 100 m of rocky crest, always tied in rope and crampons.
Another 4000 to add to your collection!